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The influence of wave breaking on wave statistics for finite-depth random wave trains is investigated experimentally. This paper is to investigate the influence of wave breaking and water depth on the...
It is well established that third-order nonlinearity produces a strong deviation from Gaussian statistics in water of infinite depth, provided the wave field is long crested, narrow banded and suffici...
The types of initial and boundary conditions which may be involved in the flow of water through an unsaturated profile to a water table are discussed. A numerical solution of the flow equation is th...
We consider the stability of a solitary wave packet of short gravity waves propagating in waters of moderate depth. It is shown that such wave packets are unstable to long transverse disturbances. The...
Spectral parameters calculated from wind-wave measurements in a finite-depth restricted-fetch estuary are compared with similar deep-water parameters. The equilibrium range of these finite-depth spect...
The weakly nonlinear theory for a stationary and homogeneous field of random gravity waves in water of finite depth is developed to the third order. This describes the second-order nonlinearities as a...
A parametric windsea model for arbitrary water depths is presented. The model is derived from a conservation of energy flux formulation and includes shoaling, refraction, dissipation by bottom frictio...
Wave-and Wind-Driven Flow in Water of Finite Depth     Finite Depth  Wave-and Wind-Driven Flow       font style='font-size:12px;'> 2008/12/16
The authors first derive both Coriolis-induced and viscosity-induced stresses for arbitrary water depth and arbitrary wave direction. Opportunity is taken here to succinctly and rigorously derive the ...
An algorithm for calculation of the nonlinear kinetic integral is described for the case of finite depth. The use of an effective approximation of the exact dispersion relationship for gravity waves i...
Stability regimes of three-dimensional surface gravity waves are provided in this study. The stability regimes for waves in water of finite depth differ significantly from those for waves in deep wate...

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